Diamond Cut Guidelines - FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions About a Diamond's Cut:

  1. What is an ideal cut?
  2. How does light reflection & refraction affect the beauty of a diamond?
  3. What are the proportions for AGS Ideal Cuts?
  4. Which proportions produce an attractive diamond?
  5. Are Ideal Cuts "Triple 0" the same as Hearts and Arrows?
  6. How can I see the Hearts and Arrows effect?
  7. Who is AGS?
  8. What is the G.I.A.'s opinion on diamond proportions?
1. What is an Ideal Cut?

An Ideal Cut describes a round brilliant diamond that has been cut to exact mathematical proportions. Each one of the 58 facets are placed at optimal angles to create an ideal balance between light reflection and refraction. There is more than one definition for Ideal Cut, for example: Tolkowsky Ideal, European Ideal and, AGS Ideal. From these, the AGS title has the best reputation because of their strict proportion guidelines.

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2. How does light reflection & refraction affect the beauty of a diamond?

When light enters an Ideal Cut diamond, it is reflected from facet to facet and then is released from the crown only, therefore creating maximum brilliance. If the stone is cut too deep (in order to retain weight), light entering the stone will leak out of the bottom and so the brilliance is lost. On the other hand, if the stone is too shallow, light will also leak out and the stone will appear glassy - this is also referred to as the fish eye effect.

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3. What are the proportions for AGS Ideal Cuts?

An AGS Ideal Cut will have measurements within the following ranges:

  • Total depth percentages must be between 58-63.5%
  • Table percentages must be between 52.4-57.5%
  • Crown angles must be between 34-35.5 degrees
  • Pavilion depth percentage must be between 42.5-43.5%
  • Girdle must be thin to slightly thick

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4. Which proportions produce an attractive diamond?

Even though there are many ways to cut an attractive diamond, there is a general range of measurements that often work well:

  • Total depth percentages can range from 57-63%
  • Table percentages can range from 55-64%
  • Crown angles can range from 33.5-35.5 degrees
  • Pavilion depth percentage can range from 42-44%
Remember beauty is in the eye of the beholder. A round diamond falling into the above ranges is usually a brilliant and attractive stone.

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5. Are Ideal Cuts "Triple 0" the same as hearts and arrows?

Not all Ideal Cuts Triple 000 will display the Hearts and Arrows effect; this will occur only if all the facets are the same shape and size and placed at exact angles. Some Ideal Cuts will show only partial hearts or partial arrows. The time, skill, and effort required to produce a Hearts and Arrows diamond is many times greater than producing a well-made diamond.

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6. How can I see the Hearts and Arrows effect?

With each Hearts & Arrows diamond, we will supply a complimentary scope allowing both you and your customer to see the effect clearly.

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7. Who is AGS?

The American Gem Society is a laboratory like the familiar GIA or EGL. In fact, it was founded by Robert M. Shipley, the founder of GIA. The difference is AGS grades on a scale from 0-10 for cut grading whereas the other labs only grade the color, clarity, and finish. When a diamond is referred to as AGS "0" or "Triple 0", then it has reached a standard of excellence in three areas: Polish, Symmetry, and Proportions.

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8. What is the G.I.A.'s opinion on diamond proportions?

The G.I.A. has been researching diamond proportions and its effect on a diamond's brilliance for many years. They have thus far concluded there is more than one way to cut a beautiful diamond. Even though the classic Tolkowsky model and the A.G.S. "0" cut are renown excellent makes, there are many diamonds cut outside of these strict guidelines that are still beautiful.

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